You cannot get a more versatile or dependable watch than the Rolex Submariner. But which to go for? Up until now, Brogue would have plumped for the classic, uninterrupted lines of the 114060 “No Date”, foregoing the cyclops positioned over the numeric indicator. But now we are torn, because here, from Tempus Machina, is the 216A. Redesigned with more than a passing nod to the Bond 6538 Sub, the case has been reshaped with a new bezel and thinner lugs, and, perhaps most distinctively, the crown guards have been filed down. That bezel has been re-profiled with a coin-edge, while its Cerachrome insert boasts the iconic red triangle marker. What’s more, 1.25mm lugholes have been drilled into the case so that vintage 2mm spring bars can be used (something Rolex has not done for more than 20 years). Finally, the 216A also has a custom-made sapphire crystal that copies the rounded structure of the plexi Superdomes used by Rolex in 1960s – just to make absolutely sure this piece is, quite literally, outstanding.

Tempus Machina $25,000 – limited to 50 pieces